Impression // The Fettercairn Range (12 y/o, 16 y/o, 22 y/o) - An Evening Chasing a Unicorn
About 8 months ago, I review my very first Fettercairn expression, the Fettercairn 12 y/o, after Rens from The Nectar told me it was something ‘fun’, ‘fresh’, and ‘exciting’ to taste. Last week, I attended a digital tasting session that introduced most of the core range to us, with a nice surprise as an extra sample. Join me as a talk about cooling rings, limited releases, and what’s to come in the world of that beautiful unicorn distillery that we call Fettercairn.
Text is © Mickaël Van Nieuwenhove
Photography is © Fettercairn
The Distillery & The Dawn of the New Range
Before I’d like to start reviewing the samples I tasted, I would like to give a brief overview of history of the distillery. As many of you probably know, the Fettercairn distillery is not a new distillery, but it is still rather unknown, apparently. The reason for this is partially due to a certain whisky journalist who has recently scored headlines in (online) newspapers, and it’s not because of his nice style of writing. I’ll let you do the work on that one.
What I would like to talk about, is that maybe, just maybe, we’re seeing the first sparks in the bright future that lies ahead of the distillery, which was founded in 1824 by Alexander Ramsay, bought by the Gladstone family in 1829, and later acquired by Whyte & Mackay in 1973.
Just a list of historical facts? Maybe. But if you stay on the surface level of the history of the distillery (which draws its name from the market town of Fettercairn, ‘the foot of the mountain’), you probably will miss out on the symbolism that is present in the ‘arch’ and ‘unicorn’ symbols, further representing links to the town (its famous arch), and the proud Scottish legacy (the unicorn stands for purity and strength).
You will probably also skip a rather important event that changed the direction of the distillery and its products. In the mid-1950s, whisky makers at the distillery decided to experiment with the production process by adding ‘cooling rings’ to their copper stills, allowing lighter vapours to be distilled because of the increase in condensation due to the copper being cooled by water.
It is exactly this unique method that , according to distillery manager Stewart Walker, allows for the distinct ‘peachy’ notes that can be found in every dram of Fettercairn. And this element of peach is combined beautifully with an array of treats and desserts, including hand-made marshmallows and 60% Honduras milk chocolate. Interesting, and delicious, combinations!
The expressions I’m about to review all belong to the ‘relaunch’ range of Fettercairn, which started in 2018 with the 12 y/o, 28 y/o, 40 y/o, and 50 Y/o expressions. During this session, I was able to taste the 12 y/o, the 16 y/o (limited edition), the new 22 y/o expression, and a special cask sample.
The cooling rings on the copper stills.
Fettercairn 12 (40% ABV)
I had already reviewed this expression, which was matured on American White Oak ex-bourbon barrels, in February. Now that my palate has matured a bit better, I’d like to provide an update of my tasting notes. New elements are mentioned in bold.
There are aromas of vanilla and citrus. There’s ripe nectarine, a creamy coconut scent, with still some butter cake in there. Flavour-wise, I'm getting a very gentle dram, filled with sweetness (the coconut is really there!), followed by a creamier aspect, and the slightest hint of (slightly unripe) pineapple. This time I picked up on more fruity, grassy notes, with even a little bit of a floral element in there.
The texture is of a water-like viscosity, which means this whisky goes down quite well, and it's a bit more difficult to keep it swirling around in your mouth. As a finish, more vanilla, with barely any dry element to round the dram out. Very down-to-earth, easy to process. A simple, enjoyable expression.
Fettercairn 16 (2020 Limited Edition)
Secondly, we tasted the Fettercairn 16 y/o, a 2020 limited edition expression was made from chocolate malted barley and matured on first-fill American ex-bourbon casks, and then receiving a 2 year finish on Oloroso sherry - and Tawney port casks. With an ABV of 46.4%, it is stronger than its younger brother, at least on paper, but far more layered and complex in reality. I might even add that this was the surprise of the evening.
Scents of vanilla and ginger, with just a memory of the peach still in there are layered together with a more buttery note, followed by a bit of chocolate. The port finish allows for a distinct dryness on the tongue, subtly replaced with a spiciness, with at its center a rich caramel and chocolate note, like a specific sticky candy I can’t recall the name of. The drawn-out finish reveals the slightest note of burnt wood right at the end of the dram.
I’m calling it. This was my favourite expression of the evening. If this is a limited edition, Fettercairn has created an expression that might very well be well-sought after, which translated itself in impressive sales in the UK.
Fettercairn 22
Thirdly, we tasted the Fettercairn 22 y/o expression bottled at 47% ABV after a full maturation on ex-bourbon casks. With this expression, I had the sensation that I could actually ‘chew’ on the dram a little bit, which might or might not be the result of the higher ABV.
The nose of this dram is floral, with more tropical fruits, some plums, and just a touch of spiciness. I even detected a light note of sponge cake in there. When tasted, this dram reveals classic vanilla and spices, with caramel and chocolaty oranges. A medium-long finish is gently drawn out on the tongue. Perhaps this is Fettercairn’s new classic ‘mature’ whisky, sophisticated and subtle.
Fettercairn Cask Sample
As a final treat, we were sent a small cask sample, revealing what Fettercairn still has in store for us. Distilled in 1988, this 32 year old expression, matured in refill bourbon hogsheads, has a current strength of 54.5% ABV.
In the nose, scents that are less floral but more vegetal, with a distinct ‘dunnage funk’ element, and a sour, almost balsamic note, finished by a little maltiness right at the back. Palate-wise, a blend of vanilla, sweetness, and fruity notes, though less pronounced as in the Fettercairn 16. The finish is simply long, drawn-out, and dry. I wonder what will eventually happen to this expression, and at which ABV it will be bottled!
Things to come
During our tasting session with brand ambassador Andrew Lennie, commercial director (France & Belgium) Innes Gibb, and distillery manager Stewart Walker, we were also given a sneak-peek at the near future of Fettercairn, which is expanding its focus from a strong core range further to strong expressions in the form of small-batch, innovative finishes. 2021 might be something to look forward to!
Perhaps only Stewart Walker really knows what lies in (the) store(houses)…