Impression // Diageo’s Rare by Nature 2020 Limited Edition Releases

Aaah, autumn. Famous for cooler breezes, more frequent rain showers, the falling of leaves, and so many other things that can have a depressing effect on your mental state. Luckily for whisky lovers, it is also the time when Diageo releases its annual limited edition called “Rare by Nature”. I was sent a sample kit of this year’s releases, and proceeded to review these separately on my Instagram channel. This is the summary, with some additional notes. I hope you enjoy!

Text by Mickaël Van Nieuwenhove
Photography is © Diageo

In the press release that was sent out, Diageo describes the Rare by Nature 2020 releases as “eight vibrant expressions, each selected to bring a taste of Scotland to every enthusiast's home” (diageo.com). Created by Dr. Craig Wilson (Diageo Master Blender), these expressions offer the best of the best of the Diageo portfolio. During the online release event, we were treated to an overview in break-neck speed, which resulted in plenty of these cask strength releases tasting rather similar.

Obviously, these are not expression to be had in rapid succession. Some of them take time to ‘open up’, and the complexity of these whiskies can only be enjoyed by taking things slow, like a nice evening by the fire.

I reviewed these samples in the span of a week and a half, making sure not to allow the previous expressions to influence my tasting notes. I did not compare any of these to each other, at least not on purpose, though I did write up a small summary of my personal favorites at the end of this article.

Cragganmore 20 y/o

The first sample that I reviewed was the Cragganmore 20 year old expression, bottled at a natural 55.8% ABV. I must say, it's a bit like a predator swooping in, out of nowhere, and only after some time you realize what just happened.

I decided to tie this one to the Danish proverb "Owls in the bog", which means there is something curious going on. It fits with this expression. Much like an owl, being a predatory bird, this dram swoops in with a full-bodied mélange of flavors, first rich and explosive, later slowly breaking down into separate flavors: chocolate, coffee grounds, dried stone fruits, some sweetness. Then, a gentle, drawn out finish, as if the flavor components are simply evaporating one by one. Mysterious enough to invite you for a second sip.

Weird how all of this is contained in a nosing that is a little bit bitter, a little bit sweet, with some floral and fruity elements of apples and pears in there, with some wood tying it together. It's like a gift waiting to be unwrapped by your tongue. This is the mystery I was talking about.

I like this expression. Maybe a bit overpowering in the beginning, but once you've got the taste for it, it opens up nicely, and you get a note of raisins in there too! In short, a successful Rare by Nature 2020 release!

Cardhu 11 y/o

Then I tried this lovely 11 year old Cardhu (56% ABV). Soft, warm, but rather diminished after the previous expression that I reviewed. This is less 'in your face'.

I noticed scents of spice, some fruit, and a hint of pepper. As flavors, a similar sense of softness, but more layered. There's fruit notes, some pepper, a certain sweeter side, and a bit of melon in the end. The finish is substantial enough to enjoy after a sip, but I wouldn't call it 'long'. Medium-long?

Dalwhinnie 30 y/o

Next, the 30 year old Dalwhinnie expression, bottled at 51.9% ABV.

In the nose, a sharper note again, with some cream and herbal notes to round it out. The flavors are sweeter, with more vanilla and brown sugar, some spice, and again that little bit of pepper, but also a little bit of tanginess. The finish goes from 'dry' tot 'drier', but doesn't suck your tongue dry. This one has quite the character, but it doesn't bite the tongue that drinks it.

Pittyvaich 30 y/o

Then, I tried the 30 year old Pittyvaich (50.8% ABV), an expression from a distillery which has been closed for a while now. For the sake of age, I let my dram 'breathe' for about 20 min, just to see what it would do.

I got burn sugar, toffee, and wood notes in the nose. The official tasting notes mention pineapple, papaya, and even green banana, but I didn't pick up on those. Flavor-wise, this dram offers predominantly warm vanilla notes for me, gently spreading around together with a slow-burning sensation. There's greener notes right at the end, perhaps a reference to those green bananas. This liquid has a short to medium finish, and is a bit more syrupy.

The Singleton 17 y/o

Let me be straightforward. I thought The Singleton was the 'least expressive' in this range during the online tasting session. It tasted a bit bland, not really outspoken. Then again, we did go through 8 expressions, all above 50% ABV, in less than 45 minutes.

Now that I've sampled this 17 year old The Singleton (55.1% ABV) again, I am pleasantly surprised by the flavors and scents. There's a scent of peaches and cream, carried on the wind, with vanilla and finally a heavy perfume of flowers and pollen. This expression is a bit thicker than water, and it's very honey-like, with some spiciness and peppery notes added to the flavor package. I experienced some influence of the ABV here as well. The finish balances between medium overall, and on the shorter side on the level of complexity. There's a drawn-out finish which is rather fragile but still noticeably there.

Mortlach 21 y/o

I have to be honest. I am not really a big fan of the basic Mortlach releases, but man this 21 year old expression is beautiful in all aspects!

At 56.9% ABV, this whisky has an 'exponential flavor pattern'. In the nose, fruits, nice and dandy, but with a deeper core of scents. There's something else going on. I noticed raisins and figs, and an undisclosed ‘scentity’ (scent and entity). When I tasted this whisky, I noticed that the liquid was thicker than usual, slowly revealing itself before it bursts out in a full-bodied, heavy-flavored expression. Right when it's about to become too overwhelming, the different flavors are almost crystalized, slid in their respective flavor slots. There's heavy fruit notes, together with something I can describe best by saying 'steak with a pepper sauce that puts hair on your chest'. A looooong and satisfying finish is the reward for daring to delve deep into this dram. In other words: I liked it.

Talisker 8 y/o

I saved this one for a specific reason: it blew me away during the digital tasting session: profound, outspoken, but also withholding its inner workings a bit. This 8 year old Talisker was partially matured on ex-pot still rum casks, which gives a bit of a tropical flavor to the maritime character of Talisker. It's more 'Bermuda Triangle' than 'Pirates of the Caribbean', though.

In the nose, salty notes, also some smoke, and even a little fatty touch, maybe like a smoked meat.
Palate-wise, a true 'flavor bomb'. This dram is in your face and you'll know it, but it won't show you its inner mechanisms. There's a sweeter touch to this Talisker, less 'salty' than the core range. There's some fruits, with influences from a wood stove, though no ashes. The finish is long, warm, a bit peppery, with another brush of sweetness right at the end. A little fireworks display left me impressed.

This is a very good expression. I suggest you try it out for yourself and let me know what you thought!

Lagavulin 12 y/o

Now, it's time to review No.8 out of 8, the whisky that started it all for me: Lagavulin.
This expression was matured for 12 years in refill American Oak casks, and bottled at 56.4% ABV. What a dram.

Scents that remind you of a windy beach, that sea-side smell and feel that reinvigorates you. Fresh, salty, but with a warm, smoky heart. And if I really spend a long time sniffing this dram, a barely noticeable scent that I also get in Marseille soap. This just bubbled up in my brain. There's classic earthiness and smoke, there's familiar citrus and a gentle oily mouthfeel. Genuine Lagavulin. Why would you ever change a winning formula? The finish is medium-long, and just keeps offering that lovely smoky mouthfeel. Aah, I love Lagavulin.

In my head, the flavors are a bit more pronounced in this 2020 release, compared to the 2019 release. I might be wrong. Perhaps I'll do a separate post where I compare the two. It's difficult to call this one 'my favorite release of the 2020 collection', simply because I'm a Laga-lover! This is sophistication, this is class. This is the Once and Future King of Islay for me.

Conclusion

This year's collection of limited releases again offered a wide range of expressions that probably contain at least two ‘winners’ for every type of whisky lover. Highlights for me are the Cragganmore 20, Mortlach 21, Talisker 8, and, unsurprisingly, Lagavulin 12. I wouldn’t mind owning those bottles, although I’ll have to save up for some of these releases. Limited editions often come at a (steep) price…

I’d like to thank Diageo’s brand ambassador Arno Dobbels from providing me with this sample set, and I must say it’s always an absolute pleasure to explore the rich Diageo portfolio. Hopefully, some time next year, I’ll be able to share a dram of these during a whisky festival. Just like you, dear reader, I truly miss attending them…