Impression // Kempisch Vuur - Cask Samples
Last week, I attended a private cask sample tasting session at the Pirlot distillery, which produces the first peated (single cask) single malt of Belgium. In a low-key, laid-back tasting session, I swapped notes with the people closely involved in production and distribution of the Pirlot products. I tasted a beautiful set of ‘things to come’. Let me explain why.
Text by Mickaël Van Nieuwenhove
Photography is © Mickaël Van Nieuwenhove, Logo is © Brouwerij / Stokerij Pirlot
Before I write down my tasting notes for the various cask samples, I’d like to explain the codes that are used to describe the various casks. Below, you can find the abbreviations and what they stand for.
L# = a whisky that is maturing on an ex-Laphroaig cask after a maturation on a bourbon cask
LP# = lightly-peated whisky, not matured on ex-Laphroaig casks
NP# = non-peated whisky
R# = whisky made from 100% rye
K# = a small cask
Cask samples, Cask samples everywhere!
We started our tasting session with cask sample L4, and 8 year old whisky, and a continuation of their 5 year old Kempisch vuuur. At about 44/45% ABV, this dram offered up scents of rubber and bicycle tires, similar to the 5 year old expression I reviewed, but less sharp in the nose. These scents make way for lots of brown sugar, veggie paste, and even some primer paint (base coating). On the palate, an elevated whisky, offering up some raw bitterness and smoke coming from a recently extinguished campfire. A long, warm finish brings everything together.
Next, we tried L19, a new batch edition of their 5 year old whisky. Don’t forget that these are all individual batches, and that every batch is taken from a single cask. In that way, the different 5 year old expressions might vary in a subtle way, and some even in a less subtle way.
With this expression, I had to ‘dig’ for the peat in the nose, as it seemed that it was covered by a layer of fresh, wet dirt. It’s that type of scent that you smell in a forest when it has just stopped raining, or a vegetable patch you just sprayed with rain water. Lovely!
The flavors in this cask sample are best described as pleasantly delicate, reminding me of licorice root, blossoms, flowery honey, and only a subtle nudge of the peaty notes.
The third dram we enjoyed was L23, which was almost 5 years old when we sampled it. Again, a very noticeable difference in scents and flavors. On the nose, toasted peat, gentle smoke, alternated by the note of green bananas or banana peel. It tasted less ‘fatty’, with the same licorice root, but a more subtle version. There was a certain dry note right at the back, and at the end we were greeted by a lightly fresh note, and even a little bit of sweetness.
After the variations of the familiar Laphroaig cask finished, we tried NP1, a non-peated new make of only half a year old. Obviously, this cannot be called whisky (it needs to mature for 3 years and one day for that), but we all agreed that the Pirlot distillery ‘is onto something’ with this one. In the nose, a strong new make scent, but also notes of honey. There were already sugary flavors and fruity notes drawing us in for more. I was reminded of mead, an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting honey with water. For those slightly more familiar with medieval drinks, I also got notes of white hippocras, a cordial (spiced) white wine.
Now that we had strolled into the non-peated area of the cask samples, we tried a sample of R1, a 1 year old 100% rye malt spirit, offering the characteristic spicy notes, with a peppery second nature, followed by a sweeter note, and plenty of malt to be enjoyed. The taste was a blend of subtle bitterness and sweetness, and it offered up a rich warm finish. I do love rye whisky, and I’m very excited about their approach to use 100% rye. Not a lot of distilleries do this, but you might have heard of a certain Finnish distillery called Kyrö…
Our penultimate cask sample was LP, a peated whisky that is 3 years old, but has not yet gone into second maturation on Laphroaig casks. It probably will never be in said casks, either, because the distillery has decided to phase out the use of second-hand Laphroaig casks, opting instead to use only their own casks.
On the nose, the familiar scent of rubber and bicycle tires, though less ‘in your face’ than in the 5 year old. This is a noticeably ‘meatier’ dram as well, as I got notes of glazed spare ribs. The same notes were present in the flavors, and the whisky just kept building unto itself. If this is the ‘unique’ Kempisch Vuur taste profile, I say ‘get rid of those Laphroaig casks’!
We finished our tasting session with a very special cask sample, called K15. This whisky of 3,5 years old was matured in a small cask of bourbon, then moved to Laphroaig casks, then moved back to a smaller cask. The result: a delicate rubbery note in the nose, with some added sweetness and even some blackberry. I also got sweet and fruity flavors, moving towards a more spicy note, tied together by a subtle dry finish. Perhaps this can be their ‘limited edition special release’? Where’s that waiting list I need to sign?
And yes, they’re also working on this…
The verdict
With plenty of casks samples offered up, I first had the idea that they were ‘throwing samples at our palates, hoping at least something would stick’. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that there wasn’t anything that I did not like, though I have some favorites.
The nice thing about having batches from single casks is that after a while, you can pinpoint which casks offer specific flavor profiles. I believe that Kempisch Vuur brand ambassadors can offer a tasting set of slight variations on their current 5 year old peated single cask, without it becoming dull. There is sufficient difference in profile to keep whisky enthusiasts interested.
I am going to sit and wait very patiently for that non-peated malt spirit and that rye spirit to mature further, and I hope I’ll get another invite or two in the following years…
