Impression // Octomore 12.x and Black Art 09.1 - Whisky for the Darkest Day of the Year

I’ve been sitting on this impression article for a bit because I wanted to publish it on the darkest day of the year, meteorologically speaking. Dive deep into the mysteries of the Octomore 12.x series, and explore the eldritch character of the Black Art 09.1 release, vicariously, through me, your host, victim, but mostly humble whisky taster. Happy winter solstice!

Text by Mickaël Van Nieuwenhove
Photography is © Progressive Hebridean Distillers

Octomore 12.x series

For every release in this 12.x series, I’ll provide you with the a list of specifications, followed by my tasting notes. No additional information, no beating around the bush. A bare-boned review, rugged and to-the-point (okay, enough stalling).

1) Octomore 12.1

• Malted to 130.8 PPM

• Distilled in 2015

• Full maturation in first fill American whiskey casks

• Maturation of 5 years

• Bottled at 59.9% ABV

Tasting notes:

Two seconds after I’ve poured my dram, the air around it starts to smell like a campfire. There’s the familiar powdered sugar in the nose, as the alcohol starts to evaporate and the scents are unfolding themselves. Don’t forget, this is a 59.9% ABV dram, so best give it some time to settle in the glass. Not sure if it does anything, but I’m playing it safe.

The nose is peated, obviously, but there’s a bit more than simple smoke. It’s more like pitch-black wood, not fully burnt, but charred. There’s a certain wetness in there as well (I’m thinking ‘rained out campfire, but I ALWAYS use that whenever I talk about Octomore). There’s a sweeter note in there as well, reminding me of coconut flakes, and maybe even a bit of cocoa powder.

On the palate: charcoal, very dry, but with a little bit of fish in there as well. Curious, but delicious. There’s a bit of brine on my palate, so this dram is a bit salty as well. I think the best way to describe it is by comparing it to smoked mackerel. It’s that type of smokiness, and it’s also oily in the mouth. Again, there’s a sweeter note as well.

The finish is long and drawn-out. There’s the peppery note that would normally sting your eyes if you’re downwind from the smoke, but now on the tongue. I like that. It’s like the tingle of smoking a cigar. The way the rolled up leaves release flavor on your lips, combined with the hot tobacco. This expression does not toy around: ‘Here’s what I’m offering, come and get it’.

2) Octomore 12.2

• Malted to 129.7 PPM

• Distilled in 2015

• 50/50 combination of maturation in 1st and 2nd fill American whiskey casks, married together with a finish in first fill French Sauterne wine casks

• Maturation of 5 years

• Bottled at 57.3% ABV

Tasting notes:

Another strong expression at 57.3% ABV, but noticeably softer, less raggedy than the 12.1. I’m sure the finish on Sauterne has something to do with this. Don’t push in your nose too deeply, though, this dram still packs a punch, even though it might seduce you with its softer side first. Hang on, is that ripe pear?

There’s a more fruity tone to this expression. Orange, melon, a bit of honey too. The peat is less smoky, more ‘in the earth’ (reference to Ben Wheatley’s newest film). All in all a blend of scents that is more subdued, more refined. More forest, less seaside.

The sweetness is developed further on the palate. Vanilla, melon, more honey, combined with a sour note of smoke and peat, which introduces a welcoming dryness. There still is a sharper edge to this expression, an edge I’m more than happy to explore!

The finish is more fleeting, more ethereal (I’m sorry, I use that word constantly), and the dram basically drifts around on your palate rather than sticking to it. The smoke is subtle, again more earthy. The sweetness lingers on the tongue. Another delicious expression!

3) Octomore 12.3

• Malted to 118.1 PPM

• Distilled in 2015

• Maturation of 2 parcels of super heavily peated spirit were maried together for this release. 1st parcel (75%): full maturation in first fill American whiskey casks. 2nd parcel (25%): full maturation in first fill PX sherry butts from Fernando De Castilla

• Maturation of 5 years

• Bottled at 61.2% ABV

Tasting notes:

Here we are, we’ve arrived at that ‘meaty’ expression that you’ve come to expect whenever Octomore releases a new set of expressions. In this case, a sharp note of seared meat, with plenty of burn marks and a lovely collection of herbs sprinkled over the juicy treat that is on the barbecue. Once you move past that initial note, there’s also a bit of chocolate and maybe a little bit of orange zest. And a certain dampness.

The flavors are lovely and smooth, and the dram is surprisingly gentle, even though it has the highest ABV of the trio. There’s a dark forest floor, rich with wet greens and decaying wood, that sweet and damp and slightly mushroom-y note when you touch a fallen tree and parts of it come off.

The finish, of lordy-lord that finish, is divine. Long, sweet, with little lumps of wet earth still floating around, a subtle dry note that makes it all ‘dry up’ on the tongue, like clay sticking to your hands. There’s a bit of charcoal in there as well, a bit of charred wood in a pond. Don’t ask me how I know all these things. You wouldn’t believe me anyway…

Black Art 09.1

Getting this sample was an absolute treat. Belgian Brand Ambassador Nick Baeyens, whose first name should start with a B, in my opinion, had arranged a genuine locked box mystery. The aim: to get to the sample bottle. The method: solving puzzles, riddles, conundrums, and mysteries. Or breaking the box. That was also a possibility.

If you’re familiar with the Black Art series, you know there’s not a lot to say about this expression, besides that it is the ninth in the series, it was distilled in 1992, which makes this nectar of the gods a 29 year old whisky, and that it was selected by the Great Alchemist himself, Adam Hannett. All other information is undisclosed.

Here’s what I tasted, and for some reason, it had all to do with apples and apple pies:

Nose: Juicy red apples in the nose, together with lots of bourbon and a dry note that reminds me of an unventilated room and/or even hot sand, some brown sugar notes, a little cream/butter, all brought together in a scent that reminds me of a raw apple pie before its put in the oven. There’s a bit of milk chocolate there as well.

Taste: apple juice (yes, really, but non-filtered, fresh), a little tanginess / a wonderful sour note, dry like a good cider, but also that same chocolate note (though leaning more to dark chocolate now).

Finish: Quickly burning up, dry - drier - driest, very pleasant, lasting, an absolute pleasure. There’s a little flirtation with brandy in there at the end.