Review // Kurayoshi Distillery's Matsui Single Malt Collection (Sakura, Mizunara, The Peated) - Exploring Japanese Whisky
Truth be told, I am experiencing a period of feverish Japanophilia. From the directorial masterpieces of Akira Kurosawa, to the moving animes of Studio Ghibli, over to the pulpy shock-value movies such as Tokyo Gore Police and the deliciously horrific mangas of Junji Ito. It's all on the list. I have taken up a quest of trying out Japanese food more often: mochi, rice noodles, ramen, and even hazelnut Kit-Kats. I'm consuming almost any Japan-related item I can get my hands on. No wonder I am writing an article about the Kurayoshi Distillery's The Matsui Single Malt Whisky Collection. I would like to give you my thoughts about their Sakura Cask, Mizunara Cask, and their Peated release. Sore wa subarashī kotodesu!
The Kurayoshi Distillery
Perhaps the most interesting aspect of the distillery where the Matsui single malts are produced doesn't lie in its location or production methods, but in something that is often whispered in the whisky world: Kurayoshi might have been one of the 'ghost distilleries' in Japan..
It really is not secret that until recently, plenty of whiskies that were 'produced' by Japanese distilleries, were 'questionable' in origin. There is not a lot of information going around, and you might suspect that due to the very loose whisky laws in Japan, plenty of 'Japanese whiskies' are in fact imported from 'that other famous whisky country'.
Luckily, those laws have become more strict recently, and it might end up in more transparancy.
Nevertheless, in 2017, the distillery decided to try and get rid of this unofficial label by being 'more open' about its whisky production. Right at the end of 2018, the Matsui single malts were released.
Don't expect too much information though, as most of the English website simply gives the absolute basic information we've grown accustomed to. There's no focus on details, and perhaps there shouldn't be.
They seem to take pride in their high-quality natural spring water from Mt. Daisen, though. I expect nothing less. Not a lot of information, true, but I'm choosing to let their whiskies speak for themselves.
Note: I am reviewing the 'international releases' of the Matsui single malts, which have labels referring to traditional Japanese art and artists. I do not believe there is any difference between the Japanese and international versions. It's probably simply marketing, and it might have been done to sell more bottles overseas. There's still a shortage in the Japanese whisky industry, so it might also be an export thing. I'm still in the dark about this one.
The Matsui Sakura Cask (48% ABV)
The first whisky in the collection is the expression I got as a Christmas present from my grandfather. I had tasted this one before, obviously, but it was interesting to compare the Sakura cask to the other two expressions in this range, especially the Mizunara cask.
This expression, which bears no age statement, although it must be very young, was matured in the casks made from the Japanese Cherry tree, also know as "sakura" (桜 or 櫻; さくら).
It is the most interesting bottle to simply look at, design-wise, as it immediately makes you think of the cherry blossoms, which is often associated with Japan.
It automatically sprouted notions of delicateness and decorum, of something very fragile, and something to be admired. The same thing happened while I tasted this expression, and that might be either good or bad, depending on your point of view.
The Sakura cask is definitely fragile, fleeting even. The scents are light, with wood shavings, powdered sugar, and coconut flakes being the more dominant aspects in my nose. After a while, I started to get hints of white wine as well.
The same trend is continued in the flavours. This expression offers up a mixture of sweetness and spices, reminding me of the tingling of ginger, without having the ginger flavour in the dram.
I wouldn't call this expression 'complex', although 'basic' just doesn't do it justice. It's something in between, and it's up to you to decide whether you would like to try a whisky that is more 'etheral' and 'fleeting' in nature.
There is a pleasant dry finish, with a gentle, almost caressing 'burn'. There's even a bit of tobacco in there. All in all, it fits with the image I had in my head, and I can imagine that it's not really what you are looking for in a whisky.
It's interesting to mention that the price in the store was about 92 euros last year, while Masters of Malt now advertises it for over 130 euros. Let's not forget that Japanese single malt whisky is expensive, and it's more of a marketing thing than we can imagine.
Nevertheless, I'd rather pay 90 euros to try this one out, which is already quite a lot of money, than 130 euros.
The Matsui Mizunara Cask (48% ABV)
Next up is the Mizunara Cask, an oak type that wafts off notions of exclusivity and rarity. For those not-in-the-know, the Mizunara oak is native to Japan, and takes about 200 years to grow to adulthood. The name is literally translated as 'water oak', and it references the tendency of the tree being too moist to create decent casks out of.
Additionally, the mizunara oak tree often does not grow in a straight way, which makes it even more difficult to turn into casks. But why the focus on these oaks, instead of importing casks from around the world? Well, that answer is rooted in Japan's history.
After WWII, it was very difficult to import casks, and so the Japanese distillers had to turn to the native oak variety: mizunara. Turns out it is not really fit to be turned into casks, but it has become a tradition, and a rarity.
There's a reason why 'mizunara finish' means 'money'. If you want to read up on the reason why, check out "What is Japanese Mizunara Oak and is it Worth It?" by Winemag.com.
If I had to compare this whisky to the Sakura cask, I'd have to say that it is definitely more intricate and complex than its sister expression. On the nose, the scents are still delicate, but they seem to be more developed.
I smelled notions of spring in the form of vanilla and green apple, with a bit more emphasis on the alcohol too. It's very similar to the Sakura, but it seems that this cask was given more time to develop, and perhaps the Mizunara finish had something to do with it as well.
The same story is further explored in the flavours. It's more rounded out, with more ginger-yspiciness in the flavour profile, vanilla, and a hint of cinammon at the end.
The finish is more present, with notes of caramel and some vanilla. There's a tingling on the gums that I find quite enjoyable.
Price-wise, you are paying about the same amount for this expression on Masters of Malt. And that really says something. If this expression has a finish on Mizunara oak, then it must be more expensive than the Sakura, no?
Well, it turns out it has the exact same price as its sister expression. Either this is pure marketing, focused on the international market, or something doesn't add up.
The Matsui The Peated (48% ABV)
Lastly, I'll take a look at the peated expression in the Matsui Single Malt collection, simply called "The Peated". I was able to find some more information via the Masters of Malt website.
This expression is pot distilled and matured in white oak bourbon casks, similar to Akashi, which also has a range of white oak matured expressions. A glance at the price, and yes, you guessed it: as costly as the other two expressions in this range.
Writing down tasting notes for this expression was a bit of a challenge, as the entire dram (scents, flavours, finish) is dominated by peat. On the nose, a smoke cloud, mixed with earth and peat, with some rubber notes and only a memory of sweetness still there. I sometimes pick up a sour note in there too.
Flavour-wise, plenty of smoke and ashes, which sometimes clear up and reveal the slightest touch of toasted wood and brown sugar.
As a finish, more smoke, but metaphorically picked up by a breeze, and quickly clearing up.
I was surprised by this expression, as the peatiness is distinct enough not to be compared by other peated whiskies that I have tasted before. I can best describe it as a whisky which was layered with a thick cloud of smoke and ash. Imagine an ash-coloured serving of vapour-like whipped peat. Yes, exactly like that.
Perhaps a bit too much on the nose for me, but unique enough to keep me interested.
Final thoughts
It's not easy comparing whiskies if you have no frame of reference. To me, this was a challenge that I welcomed, as these really are the first Japanese whiskies I ever reviewed.
The Matsui single cask collection has its merits, I'm quite sure of that. It will be interesting to explore what more Japan has to offer whisky-wise, and I'm looking forward to expanding my 'very Western-palate'.
After all, the Japanese whisky style is more "about refined taste—prized in Japanese culture—than a specific flavor profile or "style" point" ("A Beginner's Guide to Japanese Whisky", The Spruce Eats.com).
I urge you to start exploring yourself. If you give it a chance, I'm sure a treasure trove of flavours lies waiting for you.
All photographs are © The Matsui & © Kurayoshi Distillery.